If you don't know the history of the bike then maybe they've never been done or they are going to be due shortly anyway. I did mine (2002 model) in 2012 and they're due again in 2022. The other thing, which you may have covered off in another post is that all hoses, elbows should be changed every 10 years. Honda indicates Type 2 coolant should be changed every 5 years. I used to change my coolant every 2 years along with all other fluids, but I think this wasteful and the coolant now gets done every second fluid change meaning every 4 years instead of every 2. Just drain the coolant, refill with Type 2 coolant, and bring the bike to operating temp so the fan runs for a few minutes, drain again, refill with Type 2 and purge air as per the process in the manual and you should be done. I don't see any evidence of leaks or corrosion etc. Based on the pictures of the bike and the hoses etc. I'll keep an eye on this.Ĭlick to expand.Honestly, IMHO I really don't think you need to do this. Residue near hose connection, thermostat, etc, that could indicate the presence of a small leak. The drain bolt is a bit visible, between the hose and the manifold.įinally, the Clymer maintenance manual recommend to check for any powdery Here is the hose going from the left cylinder block to the bottom of the radiator. And I'll then unscrew the right cylindre drain bolt, just to see if I can get some more from there. I'll try Ron Major's procedure, of blowing thru the radiator cap to push the coolant from the cylinder block thru the hose going to the base of radiator. On the right side, about 8 inch above the engine oil sight glass, that cylinder coolant drain bolt is much more accessible : no problem to reach it, under the manifold, with a wrench. Maybe I could put the bike on the side, a little, to help drain everything. That hose connect to the cylinder slightly above the level of the drain plug. That is the hose we can unplug to drain the cylinder block. On this side, you also have the rubber hose that goes from the left cylinder head to the bottom of the radiator. You can put a wrench on the screw head, but you don't have enough play to unscrew it. The left hand side (when sitted on the bike) is not really accessible. Just a little follow up : I just had a quick look at those cylinder block drain bolt, underneat the manifolds, on both sides of the engine. There must be a way, or a tool, to access those cylinder drain bolts, without removing the exhaust pipes and all. How do you purge your cylinders block on your ST1100 ? Do you really remove your exhaust pipes at each coolant replacement ? I think I will just rinse the old coolant left in the cylinder blocks by pouring a gallon of distilled water, before repurging it, and refill it with new coolant. Geee, that is getting a bit complicated just to change the coolant.Īnd then, of course, you have to purge the "reservoir" but that is not complicated. (have to remove the engine crash guards, the exhaust guards, then the pipes) and for each exhaust guards and pipes you have exhaust gaskets that needs to be replaced before you put the pipes back on. I then looked on chapter four to see how to remove the left and right exhaust pipes, and. and that it is easier to remove the exhaust pipe first. they explain that the 2 cylinder block drain bolts (one on each side of the bike) are very difficult to access with the exhaust pipe installed. just opened the "big book" (clymer maintenance manual) to get the real, good, recommended procedure.Ĭhapter 3, for the coolant change, they say after you have drained the radiator (radiator drain bolt), you have to drain the coolant from the cylinders (yeah, that make sense).īut then. I bought a few quarters of replacement coolant, and. I have watched a couple videos on youtube, just to have a general idea. I'm geting ready to flush my coolant in my ST1100 and replace it.
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